Engine/motor mount replacement

[elk]

Has anyone ever done this and not used the $400+ Westerbeke originals? If so, which did you use? Did they fit without modification? The mounting bolt spacing seems to be 5" but I can only find 4" or 5.5".

Thanks,

Ed

[ElizabethG]

Hi Ed,

I feel your pain...

I recently had my motor mounts replaced. Mine were original (2004) with 2K hours on the engine.

The folks doing the work looked at various mounts and even ordered a set we thought would work. Unfortunately, they did not.

If you search this site, you will find posts about using Vetus mounts. I did not go that route as my understanding is that you have drill and tap new holes for the bolts. Frankly, for the tight space you have to work in, I did not want that aggravation.

I bit the bullet and ordered the OEM mounts. I'm stilled pissed at the cost of $400 per mount.

However, my labor cost was down as these mounts were plug and play.

Oh, and don't forget the prop shaft alignment afterwards. That's another bag of snakes...

Bill

[elk]

Thanks Bill.
I'm going to try the PYI mounts and the Metalastic Cushyfloat. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Bill, can you give me some tips on the "bag of snakes" alignment. I could use the help.

Thanks,

Ed

[wolfe10]

Bill, can you give me some tips on the "bag of snakes" alignment. I could use the help.

While aligning the prop shaft (actually aligning the transmission to shaft couplings) has a bit of "art" to it, it is not complex and should be checked annually. Will likely take you a lot longer the first time than once you have done it.

You need the wrenches to remove the bolts securing the couplings and I use a .002" feeler gauge (very thin). I suspect by how there are a number of good videos on aligning, but if you have questions, let us know.

[ElizabethG]

Hi Ed,

After replacing the motor mounts, you will have to align the shaft couplings as Brett mentioned.

Mine was done with the boat in the water.

In my case, the couplings had a lot of surface rust that had to be removed on the coupling faces. Those coupling faces need to be smooth.

If you are in the water and you have a dripless seal, you'll need to deal with the water ingress which is not too hard to control.

Brett mentioned using a feeler gauge of .002". The documents that I had from Catalina showed .003".

You have to adjust the nuts on the motor mounts to adjust the transmission coupler vertically and horizontally to line up with the coupler on the prop shaft. It basically becomes a geometry puzzle.

With the couplers aligned and bolted together, use the feeler gauge to measure around where the two faces meet. That gap should be .003" all the way around.

Frankly, I didn't have the patience to do the work, so I had the marina do the work.

Once you have the alignment done, do a sea trial. Come back and check the alignment. If it is still aligned, you should be good to go.

It's pretty important that this alignment be done correctly. If not, you will have noticable vibrations and will also probably wear out your cutlass bearing.

Just one more thought, since you are going through this much trouble, you might want to pull the transmission and check the damper plate. Mine was original and in terrible shape. I replaced it and it made a big difference in the rattling while in neutral and at low rpm's.

Bill

[wolfe10]

My responses in SOLID LETTER CAPS. NO, NOT YELLING.

After replacing the motor mounts, you will have to align the shaft couplings as Brett mentioned.

Mine was done with the boat in the water. YES, THIS IS IMPORTANT. I LIKE TO WAIT A COUPLE OF DAYS AFTER THE BOAT IS IN THE WATER AND RIG IS TUNED THE WAY IT WILL BE FOR THE FORESEEABLE.

In my case, the couplings had a lot of surface rust that had to be removed on the coupling faces. Those coupling faces need to be smooth.

If you are in the water and you have a dripless seal, you'll need to deal with the water ingress which is not too hard to control.

Brett mentioned using a feeler gauge of .002". The documents that I had from Catalina showed .003". EITHER IS FINE-- EXTREMELY LITTLE DIFFERENCE. THE POINT IS THAT A VERY THIN GAUGE ALLOWS YOU TO GET A MORE ACCURATE GO/NO GO WITH THE GAUGE AS YOU ROTATE THE COUPLINGS TO TEST FOR ALIGNMENT.

You have to adjust the nuts on the motor mounts to adjust the transmission coupler vertically and horizontally to line up with the coupler on the prop shaft. It basically becomes a geometry puzzle. IN ADDITION TO ADJUSTING THE UP AND DOWN AND ANGLE WITH THE MOTOR MOUNT NUTS, THE "SIDE TO SIDE" IS ADJUSTED BY LOOSENING THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE MOUNT TO THE FIBERGLASS BED.

ANOTHER POINT, THE MOUNT TO FIBERGLASS BED BOLTS NEED TO BE TORQUED PERIODICALLY. THE ENGINE PRODUCES A LOT OF VIBRATION AND THEY DO TEND TO LOOSEN. ONLY TAKES 3 MINUTES, BUT IS IMPORTANT. CERTAINLY PART OF THE 100 HOUR "INSPECTION".

With the couplers aligned and bolted together, use the feeler gauge to measure around where the two faces meet. That gap should be .003" all the way around. ACTUALLY, MY GOAL IS THAT THE GAUGE HAS EQUAL "TENSION ON IT" AS YOU ROTATE THE COUPLING. NO REASON TO SETTLE FOR THE COUPLINGS TO BE TIGHT ON ONE SIDE/TOP/BOTTOM AND LOOSE ON THE OTHER. NOT THAT MUCH MORE WORK TO GET THE "TENSION" EVEN ALL THE WAY AROUND AND THE COUPLINGS ALSO ALIGNED UP AND DOWN AND SIDE TO SIDE.

Frankly, I didn't have the patience to do the work, so I had the marina do the work. ACTUALLY, MOST OWNERS WILL DO A BETTER JOB, AS IT IS NOT TECHNICAL, BUT TAKES PATIENCE AND MANY TECHS WILL "GET IT CLOSE" AS THEY CHARGE THE SAME TO GET IT CLOSE AS TO GET IT RIGHT ABSOLUTELY DEPENDS ON THE STANDARDS THAT TECH HAS THAT DAY.

Once you have the alignment done, do a sea trial. Come back and check the alignment. If it is still aligned, you should be good to go.

It's pretty important that this alignment be done correctly. If not, you will have noticable vibrations and will also probably wear out your cutlass bearing.

Just one more thought, since you are going through this much trouble, you might want to pull the transmission and check the damper plate. Mine was original and in terrible shape. I replaced it and it made a big difference in the rattling while in neutral and at low rpm's. AGREE. REPLACE WITH THE "NEW AND IMPROVED" DAMPER PLATE-- SEVERAL GOOD POSTS ON THAT HERE ON THE FORUM.

Bill

[elk]

"With the couplers aligned and bolted together, use the feeler gauge to measure around where the two faces meet. That gap should be .003" all the way around."

Is this correct? I thought the couplers weren't bolted when checking the gap? How is there a gap when bolted together?

Thanks,

Ed

[ElizabethG]

Hi Ed,

So, if I remember correctly, the transmission coupler is not perfectly flat.

Take a look at the photo below. You'll see that there is a "raise" on the inner surface of the coupler.

That is what provides the "gap" when the two couplers are bolted together.

I may not be articulating this clearly. Maybe Brett, or someone who has done one of these can better explain.

Bill

Coupler Face

Coupler.jpg (104.18 KiB) Viewed 1962 times