prop coupler removal

[elk]

I've wasted the better part of 2 days trying to get this thing off the prop shaft so I change out the 18 year old PSS. # legged bearing/wheel puller and a mapp gas torch were not enough. I'm at the point where I cut it off, but not damaging the shaft. Either with a metal cutting blade in a sawzall or metal cutting wheel in an angle grinder. Cut down to the shaft lengthwise through the coupler and again on the opposite side. A couple good strikes with a hammer should get them off the shaft. Even if I go a little deeper than necessary, I believe the shaft will still be functional. Install a new coupler.

Anyone ever done this before? Do you see an error in my plan?

Anybody ever use one of these split couplings? I seems that it would make things easier to install and remove.

https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboar ... 50400b1000

Thanks,

Ed

[KenKrawford]

I’d definitely choose the angle grinder approach. Maybe cut 95% of the way through the coupling and then put a cold steel chisel in the kerf and smack it with a hammer. If you’re lucky it will fracture into 2 pieces without scoring the shaft.
I told you this project was goint to be a booger !

[russp]

I wouldn’t feel too bad about this Ed, seems like everyone in same boat. I had mine done in a yard, we could see a bit of corrosion on prop shaft so decided to just cut it and make a new one. Very simple and not that expensive so new coupling and PSS replacement and hopefully another 20 trouble free years.

Russ

[elk]

Thank you gentlemen, thoae are encouraging replies!

Awesome resource we have here.

Ed

[LI_Sound_Cat]

Ed,
I am going to have the yard do mine as well as it is original, if you don’t mind me asking what was the rough cost to have it removed and replaced?
Thanks
Dan

[Olivia Mae]

Honestly, it's just easier to cut the shaft in a couple of places to remove, especially if it's the older bronze one. Quick work with a sawsall. New shafts are not that expensive in relative boat terms. You can then have the new coupling fit and faced to the shaft at time of purchase by their machine shop. Tight squeeze to get it by the rudder when you install it, just wait to install the new cutlass bearing til after the shaft is in.

In my case, I planned on a new cutlass bearing, and the original plastic shelled one crumbled when trying to remove it first (necessary to get the shaft by the rudder). As soon as that happened, the sawsall came out.

Many won't agree with me here, I'm sure, but a new coupling should be fit and faced to the old shaft, or a new one if replacing. The only way you're going to have machine shop do that is to pull the shaft. Replacing the pss seal just opens that can of worms

FWIW, Deep Blue Yacht Supply in FL. did good for me for all the parts and machining when I did ours a few years ago.

[elk]

Dan,

Yesterday we got the old coupling off the prop shaft. Even after slitting it lengthwise down to the shaft we still needed the wheel puller and a ton of force. At this point I've done the work myself, so I don't have numbers except for parts. It'll take the yard a few hours to remove it, if they're successful, otherwise they my cut it, Either way, it won't be cheap. So far I've spent $2500 for a transmission, $300 for a damper plate, $90 for a PSS kit and about 30 hours of struggling. I cant see how a yard will be much faster, unless they cut right away or have some real good tricks.
I'm going to go with a PYI split coupling next, much easier to remove and replace next time. https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboar ... gs/202-153

Good Luck,

Ed

Ed,
I am going to have the yard do mine as well as it is original, if you don’t mind me asking what was the rough cost to have it removed and replaced?
Thanks
Dan

[elk]

This is a follow up to my previous post.

I received the PYI split coupling and it looks good, very well built. I opted for no keyway on advice from machine service who advised based on the horsepower of the engine, the key isn't needed. After running for a few hours and several times in reverse, the coupling hasn't budged according to the witness marks I put on the shaft and coupling. It is about an inch longer so it sits a bit more rearward on the shaft, leaving just enough room for the new PSS bellows.

I also found that my scissor jack from my 2010 Ford Fusion actually fits under the engine from the rear and, after lowering the engine, can be removed from the engine sump from the front. Much easier than the screw jacks, which I used to get the tranny out in the first place.

I had to replace both rear engine mounts because the port mount was rust welded to the engine mounting flange. Mapp gas torch and many HARD taps with a hammer finally broke it free. I replaced them with the PYI mounts, though I did need to finalize the shaft alignment with the front mounts too.

When I went to sea trial the repairs I got an engine overheat alarm so returned to the dock promptly. Took the plate off the Oberdorfer and found that the metal impeller insert that sits on the shaft had actually spun in the impeller. I think the impeller rubber was stuck to the metal pump housing because it was so dry for several weeks while up on the hard, with the raw water system drained due to the HX being removed. Good thing i had a spare impeller!

It took me about 10 days, of solid work to do everything, damper plate, tranny, mounts, shaft coupling, and PSS kit. 21 days when you add in the waiting for various parts to arrive via 2nd day air. I really never want to do that job again! But at least I know how to.

Ed