Catalina 350 International Association

Hi. First, I am very disappointed in everyone for NOT posting something for poor Ken to monitor. You realize that if there is no work for him, he will go mad and then think of the expense we will all have to chip in for his years of therapy.

Sooo. I want to redo my teak slats (sliders?). I took them off, sanded them but two have a darker area on them. What can (or should) I do to make get them to a semi-uniform shade?
Also, I think I read that you shouldn't use urethane varnish??????? but spar varnish instead. Why? if so. Finally, can I use the spray varnish, instead of a brush? How many coats?

thanks

dave

Hi Dave,

I did mine last year. Not too hard, just takes time. Of course, I researched the internet first.

Mine were in really rough shape. I sanded them down to bare wood. I used a belt sander to knock them down. I found my DA sander put in swirl marks, so I stopped using that. I can't remember, but I probably used a 50 or 80 grit initially.

I brushed on 5 coats (disposable foam brush). Between each coat, I handed sanded with a block. I cannot remember, but I may have started with a 120 grit and finished with a 220 grit. Next time, I will get a rigid flat board sander for a flat and level sanding surface. The key is to cover all the wood grain and get a finish like glass. Sanding in between takes all the high spots out and levels it smooth.

As far as finish, I used a "Marine" grade "UV protector" "Outdoor" varnish. I wasn't particular and found it at the Hardware store. They say captain varnish is great.

Good luck!
Mark

See my post under "Add on and Improvements" for the companionway drop cloth. It's near the bottom of the list.

This will keep your boards looking new after you refinish them. Also, provides a temporary closure to keep rain out, or AC in.

Bill
s/v TRIUMPH

www.thebookofsail.com