Newbie heads out

[wolfe10]

Don't know what prop you have, but we make 6.5 knots consistently on flat water. This is still well under theoretical hull speed which is 7.49 knots (1.34 times square root of 31.5' (LWL)= 7.49082772462).

If you are trying to make miles, 5 knots is SLOW. Rev it up to 2400.

Actually, start by seeing if you are over/under proped.

After the engine is warmed up, go to neutral and then to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) just for an instant. Record highest RPM. Yes, it should go to factory spec for governed redline. But, by doing this test you do not have to ASSUME that the tach is dead accurate. The engine's mechanical governor is a lot more accurate for controlling max operating RPM.

Then, with boat in gear, smooth water, go to WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

If the tach very quickly goes to governed redline (recorded highest RPM) you are underproped. So a larger prop will give more boat speed for a given RPM.

If the tach can't get within 200 RPM of governed redline you are overproped.

But, low boat speed for a given engine RPM is a symptom of being underproped.

Let us know the numbers for your boat as well as what prop you have.

Yes, I will admit my preference for being slightly overproped. BUT (big BUT) one has to be very careful with throttle to not over-fuel the engine (black smoke) and the cooling system (hose routing, raw water strainer, raw water pump, heat exchanger, etc) have to be maintained in top condition, as you can add to the engine heat load. Much safer on the equipment if you are not on top of these things to have a prop where you get within 150 or so of governed redline and call that IDEAL.

[Fiftybucks]

We are at North Miami. Inside ICW. 22 knot wind. Sky black. At Anchor just off channel. Lewmar. Holding. Found a huge mansion under construction and used front yard 9.6 deep. Had a fright today. Fixed bridge north of downtown Miami barely cleared. We are 52 plus anonometer. That one was 56 on the board and we cleared by .5.

We pumpout in Miami. Then fuel. Took 21 gal all the way from Marco Island. Seems like forever ago. The prop is a 14 x 11. Not original. I have been running mostly at 5 knots and 2000 rpm. Don’t want to tax it out until I get it to Ft pierce. Cops and rescue boats active all around us.

Did you all know you can get fined for tearing up sea grass 1000$ sq ft?? Florida Fish and game gave me a warning because I had clouded the water behind my boat by revs engine in reverse.

[Fiftybucks]

hi in FT Lauderdale

so much... happened next post issues with boat

[Fiftybucks]

2 engine issues. It now overheats under heavy load. 6 knot current plus 20 knot head wind engine at 2000 rpm hits 200 degrees. Found the coolant in my system was pure water. Bottle was low and added Green coolant to correct level.

What is normal on temp? Do these. Engines get hot like a car engine given infinite access to sea water?

Also. Engine running rough at low rpm in gear but smooth as silk at 1000. What gives?

We got a slip in ft lauderdale and staying a day to relax for the first time whole trip.

[Fiftybucks]

I’m going to see about a trans replacement. It’s cheaper than huge tow bill.

Anyone replace both engine and trans with larger beta or yanmar?

[TBOT422]

So Many questions . . .

Engine running rough at low rpm in gear but smooth as silk at 1000.

What do you call "low RPM"? Idle speed for the engine should be around 1,000 RPM. If set lower than that, it will most definitely run rough.

It now overheats under heavy load.

Sudden engine overheating is likely caused by obstruction of the raw water cooling system (i.e. raw water strainer, clogged raw water intake, fouled or broken impeller blades on the raw water pump, clogged heat exchanger, clogged exhaust elbow, etc.). If only in a heavy load situation, it could be fouled or bent propeller (note comment about running rough in gear at low RPM). I would suggest diving and checking out the propeller. It may have 50 feet of crab trap line wrapped around it. While you are there check out the raw water intake.

[wolfe10]

The Universal diesel is a very long-lived, high quality diesel engine (Kubota). It is possible to kill any engine by abuse or lack of maintenance, but very hard to wear this one out. How many hours is on yours?

If you have a vibration under 1000 RPM in gear, but not in neutral, very likely: http://catalina350.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=685. Many of us have changed this out ourselves with the upgraded part. Also, make sure the engine mount bolts (both large ones from mount to engine and small ones mount to stringer) are tight. If loose, assume the engine may have moved out of alignment and needs to be realigned.

Experience has shown that transmission fluid should be changed at same interval as engine oil.

Overheating-- this is cumulative. A little restriction in the raw water strainer, a heat exchanger with mineral buildup, low coolant level in closed system, etc all combine to reduce ability to dissipate engine heat.

200 degrees F for a short time will not harm the engine, but is a sign that the cooling system need work. Actually, I will state it differently-- if engine operating temperature rises above THERMOSTATICALLY CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE except under extreme conditions (like WOT for a few minutes to make a bridge opening) you need to find out why.

[JohnNorton]

You mention "warned for disturbing .(.sea grass)". It does not take much to reduce flow in your sea strainer located under the aft cabin bed just off centerline- and sea grass can easily get into this. Hope that is your only issue. Open it up, pull out strainer. I expect some sea grass will be there.

[Fiftybucks]

Found the water pressure issue was not the pump. Item in the trunk slid sideways when the boat tilted at little shark. They pulled the cold water hoes off the transom shower. All Ok.

[Fiftybucks]

Heating engine. Ran today 2 miles up river from Lake Shirley. Back Down to New River. 3 miles up. No heating issue. I checked exhaust for water flow. Seems Ok. Checked oil level Rught in the middle. Thx John. I did check raw water and there was some sea grass.
Still runs rough at idle.
So much to learn. Deployed a anchor snubber with clevis hook last night. Will always use now. I saw it on the boat but did not know what it was.

[wolfe10]

Rough at idle IN GEAR or IN NEUTRAL????????

See my post above.

[Fiftybucks]

Thx Wolfe. I agree. That’s why I felt uncomfortable at 200 degrees. Like I said we were south of port lauderdale in the ICW coming thru bridge tide change at max, max current plus 20-22 knts knrhe nose for 2 hrs.
At one point I was only making 0.5 knts SOG for 1 hr. And at 1900 rpm. Right at the port opening all the sudden 3.2 knts. Normally I see 5.2 or greater.

[Fiftybucks]

So now we have culinary water. The hose fixed. Closing boat up. Looked st batteries this morning. Bad bad news. Found out why no house bank.
They where dry boiled overcharging. So I added water. Bad idea. Turns out one has a split top to bottom. Water came out all contained in battery compartment. I had to remove one of them so I could clean up mess. So now it’s two new golf cart batteries. These are AGM Did some program in the inverter /charger cause thi?
Can I replace with flooded?

[wolfe10]

Would like to be able to continue to help, but we don't have enough information on your battery problem to do that.

Since you said you added water to the batteries, I ASSUME they were wet cell. Two 4D's or 4 6VDC golf cart batteries?

Then you mention that they are AGM and wonder if the charger may have been mis-programmed??

Please let us know what you had and what you are replacing them with.

Also, what charger you have and how it was set up. What is FLOAT VOLTAGE (after charger has been on for at least 5 hours)?

And, to answer you question about whether the charger caused the issue-- unlikely we can do anything more than speculate.

Could be any of OR a combination of the following:

Low water level exposing the plates. This or other cause of a cell going bad-- maybe just from old age, excessively deep level of discharge, etc. If a charger is set to do a perfect job of charging a 12 VDC battery and a cell is bad, indeed it will way overcharge a 10 VDC battery causing it to boil dry. But, you sure should have smelled it!

My observation is that it is less important what caused the problem and a lot more important, once new batteries are installed to verify that you charging system is working properly for your new batteries.

[Fiftybucks]

Thx in advance. I did not know off hand. Hand to research. The two bad batteries are 4d AGM. 2000 watt Xantrex inverter / charger. 1 group 31 AGM start battery inn great condition. I thought the I/charger could sense the type of batter and change program. Maybe I have to change. I’m definitely going with flooded. But is it ok to mix? Should I get a flooded start battery so they are all the same? It was silly to set out without knowing and trusting survey. I have pics but once again too large.
On the float voltage.
I put a multimeter on and charger was at 13,85. After 2 hrs. The volts level showed good on the battery test rocker switch (in the green) but upon 1 attempt to start engine. just a click and dead. Engine start batter good. I’m not sure what all the.numbers are that the Xantrex cycles thru. Some are negative unless charging for some time.

[wolfe10]

With the location of the batteries under the nav seat (read that in the living area) I would suggest AGM's which do not out-gas except under extreme over-charging.

How did you add water to the old AGM"s???

Yes, the Xantrex 2000 is programmable for: Battery technology, battery bank size (in amp-hrs) and temperature (unless you have the optional battery temperature probe).

As far as mixing battery technologies, best answer is NO. Acceptable answer is that the charging parameters are close enough between wet cell and AGM.

Where is your start battery located? And, if it is old, best advice is to have all batteries of same age and same technology.

[Fiftybucks]

Yes they are under the seats.
I popped the caps off then unscrewed a hexagon plug with o ring. Shined flashlight into cell dry cell plates. Then added distilled water using funnel. This was only on 1 st house battery. Which all the water I added leaked out. So AGMS don’t have water? They are supposed to be dry plates? Forgot. Multimeter showed 10.44 volts on either before touching anything.

[wolfe10]

10.44 VDC is totally dead.

AGM's are not designed to have water added.

That voltage indicates either a bad battery (totally dead) OR bad charging leading to a dead battery. You have been motoring quite bit recently-- providing a completely separate charging source. What is voltage after motoring for several hours and having motor off for 2+ hours??

Again, if cruising and not knowing how the old batteries were treated, were it me, I would replace with either 2 4D AGM's or if they will fit (no first hand experience) with 4 6 VDC AGM''s wired in series/parallel.

Tell us about the "start battery" where it is located and how it is wired!

[Fiftybucks]

there was a question a bit back on how many hours... about 950 now
i did not get maintenance docs with purchase but some other docs... had complete oil change ... filter... racor fuel filter, all professionally done at sneads... no complaints there. but the coolant was pure water...

on the start battery... it is in the next forward under seat compartment.
im not sure on the wiring... not my strong point but learning fast...

all have to understand, the 2 4ds are ABSOLUTELY TOAST !!! cracked and bulging sidewalls.. from top to bottom.
they will have to be replaced with what... i'm open to suggestions. maybe 3 3 golf cart G series?

What was the original battery configuration? where were they located.. did they come with AGMs?
I want to cruise and have the fridge run medium cool overnight. I'm not sure what that is load wise, but enough house battery bank to cover. almost no other draw, except anchor light, intermittent interior light. maybe 4ds are too big?

[Fiftybucks]

thx for the suggestion on the damper issue... that might be what is causing the vibration...
it is a heavy vibration, low frequency, shake felt up thru floor.
you guys changing my mind on flooded.... they should also be AGMs.....

on the runs rough.... actually only at idle speed.... and stumbles a little even not in gear.
reverse seem normal... maybe part an injector, part the damper... i'm going to look close at the damper
RD-22AM-4 Where is this the right damper plate... and Wolfe... yes it is shifting harder. yes in gear at idle is worse setting.
i read the damper plate document... What source for the plate do you recommend?

on the line wrapped on prop shaft... I will look... we went thru 1000s..... i mean literally 1000s.... and could have indeed wrapped up a crab pot line

wife says i need to get new oven range knobs! found on Catalina Direct