Cutlass bearing replacement

[Windhunter]

I need to replace my original cutlass bearing on an early 2005 that has the non-brass bearing. I’ll obviously put in a brass one. Ventnor Marina gave me a “ball park” estimate of 10hrs including dropping the rudder. I have a PSS. Is the estimate realistic?

[Triumph]

Instead of dropping the rudder you could move the engine up and out of the way and pull the shaft into the boat. That's what my mechanic did. I've also heard of others able to pass the rudder with the shaft?
Maybe someone can speak to that.

Bill on TRIUMPH

[leigh weiss]

Bill et al,
I have replaced the cutless bearing by the way of removing the rear shaft flange and releasing the shaft seal parts allowing the shaft to slide aft. - removing the grub screws holding the bearing in the stern tube and carefully pulling out the bearing. Once the bearing is out, the shaft will shift to one side of the rudder and pass the rudder. ( very tight )I thought I might have to drop the rudder a few inches to give me some more clearance once the rudder shaft was below the top bearing. If the shaft shows signs of excess ware, you might want to cut the shaft into sections with a saws all once you have confirmed the shaft will pass the rudder for replacement.
This will give you a chance to inspect the shaft for ware and or corrosion. If the cutless bearing is as old as mine was, the shaft might be worn as was mine. So a new SS shaft was in order. Put it all back leaving the cutless bearing to be installed last to give yourself clearance. As I recall the job took me working alone about one man day in total. With a break to get a new shaft made and a replacement for the shaft seal.
Let us know how the project goes.

Leigh

[Olivia Mae]

The shaft will clear the rudder. No need to drop it. However, there's one catch. The old cutlass must be removed for the shaft to have enough wobble to clear the rudder. If you had the one with the brass shell, you could grab the half inch or so that sticks out and walk it out by twisting it with a pair of pliers. Mine also had the phenolic / plastic shell like yours has, so it crumbled as soon as I got a pair of channel locks on it and tried.

So what I did was to try getting the cutlass out first. Since that didn't work, I didn't waste any more time and cut the shaft in a couple of places to remove it. I didn't even take the prop off. Removed that from the shaft in a press later. You really should replace the coupling anyway, and have the new one fitted and faced to the shaft. It's also a good time to replace the PSS seal while you're at it, and put in a new damper plate if you're getting any low speed chatter from that. I was also able to get a shaft that allowed me to add a prop nut anode on it. The original shaft didn't allow that without some creative machining to the nut assembly that holds the anode.

Once the shaft is out of the way, you can get the cutlass out by slitting it through carefully in 2 or 3 places and peeling out the pieces. I used a sawzall for this, but you have to be careful not to cut deeper than the bearing.

When you go to slide the new shaft in, tape up the threads well as it will scrape the rudder and gouge it if you aren't careful. It's a very tight fit but it will slide past with some persuasion. When you set the new cutlass in place, make sure you leave a half inch or a little more out (don't drive it in flush) so you have something to grab if you need to replace it in the future.

Good luck with the project!

Edit: one other thought...If you're planning on paying a yard to do the work, you may want to have them estimate things with just cutting and replacing the shaft. I paid $467 for an Aqualoy 22 stainless shaft, coupling, and labor to have the coupling fit and faced to the new shaft from Deep Blue Yacht Supply a couple of years ago. The labor savings alone might make going with a new shaft cheaper.

[Bob_A]

Perhaps you're done now but I wouldn't consider dropping the rudder without being certain the prop shaft will release from the coupling first. Unless of course you feel the rudder assembly requires servicing. My shaft was so frozen in the coupling I had no choice but to cut it out and replace it with a new one and a new semi split coupling, fit and faced. By the way the original phenolic bushing was in perfect condition after 16 years. Zero lateral shaft play. Replaced of course but point being its all about the alignment. Good luck.

[wolfe10]

Cutlass bearing wear is "contributed to" by:

Mis-alignment
Grit/abrasive in the water
Hours it is run

And, of course, if water flow is cut off by something like a plastic bag wrapping around the shaft wear is materially increased!!!

[schipp790]

Angst and Gratitude are marinas that take the job then give up after figuring they might have to drop rudder or ask for help.
Thank you to the C350 Association, Rusty n Tom/Gypsea PCola, Warren at Catalina.
Lots of picture at low pixal count, email me for larger
I chose to remove the shaft wo/ moving engine or dropping the rudder, that was to be Plan B. Cutting/gouging a groove in the rudder to facilitate shaft removal with bearing installed was suggested by another local marina and not an option for me.
As mentioned in other posts, having 1/2" of Brass shelled Cutlass protruding would be handy for grasping to remove bearing. Mine was a Hard Plastic Shell w/ Nitrile Core replacement inserted flush into shaft tube aft of keel, nothing to pull.

Pre Removal

20220713_154400.jpg (232.73 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Remove Prop, Zinc, Grub screws- mine were 3 and 9oclock
Detach/Remove half couple n seals from transmission end.
Purchase 3ea, 8" long/ 1" ID precut iron pipe at hardware store (If unavailable cut 8" long sections of 1" ID sch40 PVC, one additional 4" pc.)

Prior to fitting pipe in shaft housing

20220716_124909.jpg (241.69 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Shaft inside fiberglass housing

20220716_124938.jpeg (249.48 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Pipe visual being placed on shaft

20220716_160831.jpg (243.65 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Pre Removal w pipes installed

20220716_162000.jpg (245.36 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Slide these sections over forward end of shaft into fiberglass shaft tube 3pc/8" + 1pc 4", install two hose clamps fwd end of shaft.
Now you're ready to pull cutlass bearing out from aft end using slight taping motion.( Having prop nut on will give you something to hold) After bearing pops out, remove nut, lengths of pipe, clamps, put layer tape/padding over both ends of shaft so as not to gouge inside of shaft tube. Might help to turn rudder slightly opposite of side your removing shaft on. It is still tight on clearance at least for me.

Removing Shaft

20220716_171011.jpeg (253.72 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Cutlass length measurement

20220718_073651.jpeg (253.62 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Worn Shaft

20220718_073519.jpg (240.58 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Cutlass ID

20220718_073603.jpg (249.64 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

20220716_163511.jpg (247.25 KiB) Viewed 1129 times

Giving up was probably better on their part, I learned something, they learned something they can offer, the community learned there is another way to remove a cutlass bearing. See you on the water

[Bob_A]

Hello schipp 790
I really appreciate your taking the time to make this post. Very clever.
I'm assuming you replaced the shaft?
It appears the wear on yours was at the bearing and very visible once the coupling end was released and the shaft drawn aft some.
Might it have been an option to cut the shaft aft of the bearing and take it out in a couple sections?
Yes after that it means a very careful dissection of the old bearing (or maybe a blind bearing puller)
Not being critical whatsoever, just curious. I really like your method and the fact you shared it.