Full cleat?

[SeaBreeze78]

I have Tropical Storm Fred bearing down on me as I write (Aug. 13, 2021). So I pulled up the post titled “Storm Preparation” to see what I have missed. You may be in the same boat if you are reading this post. Fred should be a non-event for me, but I had to prepare early just incase. In so doing I have learned a few things along the way.

I am very glad that at the beginning of Hurricane season, I removed the roller furler jib. Be proactive not reactive. Pick yourself a windless morning and make it easy on yourself. I failed to remove my jib last year and only secured it in place. The wind got inside of the jib up higher than where I could wrap line around it. It blew out, flapped for 48 hours and came close to loosening my forestay completely. That would have been detrimental to my standing rigging. When looking at a furled jib compared to the size of the mast. They are similar in cross section. Basically your windage aloft, is twice the size with the furled jib. Not removing the jib was a $1,600 lesson.

First, I need to go to the thrift store and buy several used levi’s for anti-chafing guards.

Second, after pulling out all the assorted ropes. I realize how nice it is to have very large, long, sturdy ropes. I remember how they seemed so expensive when I bought them. They are well worth it now. I will probably go get some more and dedicate them to exact piling, length and cleats.

Third item, and one that I can use some expert advice on. There are never enough cleats to tie too. So you end up putting all the lines on just a few Cleats. The cleats get overwhelmed by the third large diameter rope. The rule of thumb that I came up with is: Put a spliced eye over the cleat and run it to shore vs. the other direction. Reason is, one large loop vs. three turns on the cleat leaves more room. Second reason is, now from shore you can add/subtract line to position the boat in the slip and fine tune it. If all of the lines lead from shore to a cleat. You may have to undo two other lines to fine tune the bottom line on the cleat.

Unfortunately, you don’t have a choice of fine tuning much, if the line comes from a piling that you can not easily get too. But even then tie a loop in the line coming from the piling using a bowline. Then slip this over the cleat. You might have to tie that loop several times to fine tune the length.

Good luck to any C-350 owners when the winds kick up!

[wolfe10]

No question:

Remove jib and stow below. If strong storm, remove non-furling main and stow below.

Remove any canvas (bimini, dodger, etc)

At least double lines. Add springs to spread the load. Center boat in slip so it has the most "play room" for winds from different directions. Secure lines so that tails can not whip around.

Disconnect and stow shore power if at a dock-- rising water and electricity don't play nice together.

Secure items below to withstand 30 degree rolls.

Been there, done that on several of our boats over the years.

[D&M]

To double up a cleat with the eyes of a line it should be easy. Learn to do what is called “ dipping the eye” (Navy speak). Put the the first eye on the cleat then with the second eye, before you put it on the cleat pass it underneath and up through the eye of the first line before putting it over the cleat. You should then be able to remove either line. You could add a third but you would have to dip both previous lines in turn.