Replacing dripless shaft seal bellows
Moderator: KenKrawford
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- Posts: 105
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:20 pm
- Location: White Stone,VA - lower Ches Bay
Replacing dripless shaft seal bellows
Has anyone replaced the PYI dripless shaft seal bellows on their boat? If so what problems did you run into? Thanx.
Jim Lassiter
2005 Catalina 350 "BELLA DONNA" # 368
White Stone, VA (lower Chesapeake Bay)
2005 Catalina 350 "BELLA DONNA" # 368
White Stone, VA (lower Chesapeake Bay)
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2015 9:57 pm
Re: Replacing dripless shaft seal bellows
Easy replacement, should take no more then 1.5 hours. Pre spray shaft coupling and bolts with WD-40 will make the job easier.
Just clean up any over spray prior to reassembling.
John Schwarz
Canopus hull 196
Just clean up any over spray prior to reassembling.
John Schwarz
Canopus hull 196
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- Posts: 105
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:20 pm
- Location: White Stone,VA - lower Ches Bay
Re: Replacing dripless shaft seal bellows
Thanx John, hope it is that easy; many posts I've read today said that it's not, in fact it can be a real bear (to put it nicely).
Jim
Jim
Jim Lassiter
2005 Catalina 350 "BELLA DONNA" # 368
White Stone, VA (lower Chesapeake Bay)
2005 Catalina 350 "BELLA DONNA" # 368
White Stone, VA (lower Chesapeake Bay)
Re: Replacing dripless shaft seal bellows
Assuming you are planning to do this OUT OF THE WATER!
Only real issue (other than following the installation instructions) is removal of the flange on the prop shaft that mates to the transmission output flange.
Some have used the transmission flange and a socket to "press" loose the shaft flange. IMO very dangerous, as bending the transmission flange can be a lot of $$.
I would suggest using a scrap piece of 1/4" angle drilled to align with two opposite holes on the flange. Use them and the proper size socket on the shaft and two grade 8 fine thread bolts to press it off.
Soaking the shaft flange with a good penetrating oil for a couple of days before starting is highly recommended.
If you need more details, let us know.
Also, once back in the water for a couple of days, a good time to check prop shaft alignment. Special tool is .002" feeler gauge. Ya, about the thickness of a sheet of paper. And be sure to torque down the engine mount to engine bed bolts. They DO work loose.
Only real issue (other than following the installation instructions) is removal of the flange on the prop shaft that mates to the transmission output flange.
Some have used the transmission flange and a socket to "press" loose the shaft flange. IMO very dangerous, as bending the transmission flange can be a lot of $$.
I would suggest using a scrap piece of 1/4" angle drilled to align with two opposite holes on the flange. Use them and the proper size socket on the shaft and two grade 8 fine thread bolts to press it off.
Soaking the shaft flange with a good penetrating oil for a couple of days before starting is highly recommended.
If you need more details, let us know.
Also, once back in the water for a couple of days, a good time to check prop shaft alignment. Special tool is .002" feeler gauge. Ya, about the thickness of a sheet of paper. And be sure to torque down the engine mount to engine bed bolts. They DO work loose.
Brett Wolfe
C350 #180
"Vindaloo"
Ft Myers FL
C350 #180
"Vindaloo"
Ft Myers FL