Replacing Fixed Ports

[KenKrawford]

The following is a post from the C350 mailing list. In an attempt to centralize popular topics and make searching easier, I have reproduced the following message:
Ken Krawford
Moderator


I'm pretty nervous about an upcoming project. One of my smoked plastic fixed windows has begun to leak and I have effected patches now twice. Time has come to do a proper repair. I have just taken delivery of some 3M VHB tape to put the window back in with. My worry is how to get the window out safely. Obviously , where the leaks are, the seal is broken, but I don't know how good a seal still exists elsewhere around the window.
For those of you who have done this, did you find that you had to cut the window out? Did you end up replacing the pane with new? Where did you get the replacement pane? Am I worrying for naught?

Al Szymanski
SV Halona

Would it take something like a piano wire and saw back and forth working
around the window. Obviously need 2 people one inside and one outside.
isn't that how they do auto windshields?

Good luck

Chris
Seclusion #138

Al,
You're talking about the fixed portholes on the sides aren't you?? If so, no you do not need to cut the old window out and it's a very easy fix. From the inside, carfully remove the plastic trim--it's only held in place with velcro, but you don't want to break it. Then you will see the small bolts which old the window assembly in place. There are two halfs if I remember correctly. What I did was to tie a line to the outside half of the window (on one of the screws I believe) and secure the other end on the inside of the salon someplace. Undo the small bolts and then gently pry the inside half in towards you. Once you have them apart, you gently push the outside assembly outwards. If you accidently push it out so far it drops and you don't catch it, then the line holds it and you don't lose it overboards. Once you have the window assembly inside, you can clean off the old chalking. The re-apply the fresh stuff and using the safety line as a back up, re-install the window.

Does that make sense? I've had to do it once and it turned out to be very easy. I should've taken some pictures and written it up for the Mainsheet but time got away form me and I didn't. Let me know if you have any problems or questions.

Maggie Brown
#246, Bat 06


Thanks Dave and Steve. Dave - it's the lexan window not the opening or fixed portlights - but thanks for the response.
The window is the four that are above the handrails to port and starboard. Steve got the right ones.
Steve - did you cut from the inside or the outside? I have two glass window installer suction cups ( use them to hold me in place in the dink when working on the hull ) and I figured I'd have the Admiral gently pull on them while I cut or wedge the panes out from the inside.
As for the re-install - this 3M VHB stuff "says" it bonds on contact and only gets stronger over time.
I'll keep the group up on the trials - but it will have to be after this weekend. We're expecting the first of the big winter storms here in the Puget Sound.
Al

[Copacetic]

Hi Al,
My port side fixed window just sprang a leak. I can see how the existing "caulking" has separated near the rear area. I know I need to remove and rebed but what is the right material to use to rebound? Is it the 3M VHB tape that you mentioned? Did the tape work in the case of this window? Or is there something else?
If anyone else knows, please check in.
Thanks,
Scott

[Copacetic]

I see Catalina Direct has a Dow Corning Sealant for fixed Plexiglas windows. And it is black. Is this the stuff to use for window rebedding?