How thick is the main bulkhead?
Moderator: KenKrawford
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How thick is the main bulkhead?
For my birthday, my wife bought me a really nice brass clock and barometer, and I'll likely mount it somewhere on the main bulkhead between the main cabin and the head. Anybody know how thick that wood is? I want to mount it securly, but I'd hate to put screws through the other side.
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Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
I've never mounted anything on the bulkhead but I recall hearing that there is a metal (aluminum??) layer sandwiched in the plywood. If this is true, you would probably have to drill through it in order to hang anything. I would guess that the bulkhead is 3/4" thick.
Ken Krawford
Message Board Moderator
C350 # 351
Lake Lanier, GA
Message Board Moderator
C350 # 351
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
A metal layer in plywood? I've never heard of such a thing, but then again, there's probably a lot of things I haven't heard of. How hard is it to drill through aluminum? I once drilled through the bottom of an aluminum beer can, but I don't think that counts (long story).
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Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
I think you'll find that large curved bulkhead that separates the main salon from the head is a thick, heavy piece of fiberglass, covered by a thin layer of veneer.
I remember a thread some time ago where an owner was not happy with some of the veneer pealing at a very visible seam.
I've mounted a speaker bracket into that bulkhead, on the port side, near the stainless rigging rod that is just aft of the bulkhead. I had a heck of a time getting a wood screw to bite into the material backing the veneer. In fact, I remember stripping the head off at least one screw because the fiberglass backing was so tough.
Take a look at the very edge of the bulkhead while standing in the shower, maybe using a small mirror - I think you'll see the makeup and thickness from that vantage point.
Good Luck!
I remember a thread some time ago where an owner was not happy with some of the veneer pealing at a very visible seam.
I've mounted a speaker bracket into that bulkhead, on the port side, near the stainless rigging rod that is just aft of the bulkhead. I had a heck of a time getting a wood screw to bite into the material backing the veneer. In fact, I remember stripping the head off at least one screw because the fiberglass backing was so tough.
Take a look at the very edge of the bulkhead while standing in the shower, maybe using a small mirror - I think you'll see the makeup and thickness from that vantage point.
Good Luck!
Tim Brogan
April IV C350 #68
Seattle
April IV C350 #68
Seattle
- william vanwagoner
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Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
I have mounted a Weems & Plath clock and barometer on the main bulkhead, and it is not an easy chore. The bulkhead is thick and has fiberglass or some similar very hard material under the wood veneer. I used the small brass screws that came with the clock and barometer, but first drilled pilot holes. The pilot holes were not enough as the bulkhead material would bind the screw causing the head to shear off. Finally, I found some steel screws the same side as the brass ones and screwed them in first to cut some threads. Then the steel screws were backed out and replaced with the brass screws. As I recall, these screws were about one half inch long, so the bulkhead is at least that thick, and I would expect considerably thicker.
Bill VanWagoner #229
Bill VanWagoner #229
Bill VanWagoner
Destiny #229
Destiny #229
Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
I recall what Bill did with the pilot screws, and I followed his procedure. Same size screws, about 1/2 long. No problems, I mounted a three instruments and a picture frame.
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Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
I'll give it a shot...got my fingers crossed. I hate drilling holes in expensive things!
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Re: How thick is the main bulkhead?
Finally got around to installing these today. It was totally a non-event. My instruments were diffenent; no brass screws, they were steel. I just had to drill into the wood, which was easy. There was something hard behind the wood (there's an air gap in there too), but the short screws didn't require drilling that far. It looks real nice (I'll have to grab a picture of it).