spinnaker size

[ahuffman]

Can anyone tell me what dimensions you have on an asymmetric spinaker?

[Dave Granata]

I don't have the exact dimensions but when I was pricing our spinaker, I used the catalina 36 as a starting point because the sailmaker had not made one for a 350 yet. When he made it I had to give him the cut sheet (side profile) of the boat and rigging. I found the cut sheet in the owners manual that came with the boat. The final product was very close in size to that of the C-36 but it wasn't exactly the same. This was the best thing I bought for the boat. The boat really moves. In winds under 10 kts, I have no problem flying it by myself with the aid of the autopilot and clute sock.
Dave Granata
#226

[Jack McDonald]

Dave,
We are considering an asymetrical spinnaker for the upcoming season. Thanks for the tip re. using a chute sock. I have some questions:

1. Can you provide some performance numbers for light winds?
2. Where and how did you attach the tack of the sail?
3. Where did you mount the blocks for the sheets?
4. Any pictures of the sail and rigging?

[Dave Granata]

Jack,
The increase in speed is around 1.5 times the speed than if I just had the main and 135% flying. If your doing three knots- you could most likely get 4.5 knots with the chute. If I sheet it in tight and stetch the luff I can also go upwind, though not very close to the wind (maybe about 60 degrees off). In real light winds if I'm running dead down, I fly it with the main furled. Going dead down in light air the main tends to block the chute. I would encourage everyone to get a spinaker, they are a hell of a lot of fun and gorgeous to look at!

Rigging-
Halyard- I pulled out the secondary jib halyard and reinstalled it through a block mounted to the existing small bail on the port side at the top of the mast. This gets the spin halyard out in front and over top of the forestay. This is important because if not done the secondary halyard will rub on the forestay when gybing. The halyard goes through the block and enters an entrance/exit point on the side of the mast on the port side. There is also an existing strap mounted to the exterior of the mast to make the turn of the halyard easier (from the block to the entrance/exit). It goes down inside the mast and exits at the original entrance/exit point near the base of the mast and then back to the existing cabintop clutch. To rig this was very easy. My wife hoisted me up in a bosuns chair and I took some string tied to a bolt (for weight) and dropped it down the mast from the upper port side entrance/exit point. She then looked in the mast at the lower entrance/exit point and stuck a coat hanger, with a small hook on it, in there to grab the string. I then tied the string the the old halyard and pulled it through the block and down the mast. I used a garhauer block at the top of the mast.

Tack-
I mounted a garhauer block on the bail of the anchor bow roller. Right now I just tie the tack line to the bow cleat. I'm planning on running it back to the cockpit by way of the stanchions. This will allow me to let the tack in or out by using the primary winches. As of now, It's very difficult to adjust the tack because even in light winds, there's alot of pressure on it.

Sheets-
What I've done here is a little unconventional. I took two garhauer block with snap shackle and I tied each one to the port and starboard stern cleats. I just take a 1' piece of line and tie a bowline through the center of the cleat and the shackle. My intent was to shackle the blocks to the center of the cleats, however it was too small to go around the cleat also I was afraid of rubbing of the chrome around the cleat. I may install a U bolt through the hull in that area to be able to snap on the shackle, but I just really need to think about it carefully before I drill hull. For right now, just tying it on works great. Also my blocks have beckits which allows me to use a shock cord to hold up the block so it doesn't bang on the hull. The sheets are 1/2" and they travel from the clew to and through the block and to a primary winch.

I bought the sheets and tack line from JSI in Florida. Blocks are from garhauer. My spinaker and sock were made locally at UK sails in eastport.

Hope this helps you and all in taking the plunge to get a spinaker.
Dave G
#226
Kent Island, MD

[Jack McDonald]

Dave,
Excellent info! Were you happy with UK Sails in Eastport? What weight sail cloth did you use - .75 ounce or 1.5 ounce? Care to share what UK charged for the asym?

[Dave Granata]

They recommended .75 oz which I think is great for the bay. I paid around $2400 for it and that included the sock. I did pay more than usual because I wanted a very colorful chute. I did a rainbow pattern and he had to charge extra because of all the wasted materials. They try to get several panels out of a width of material and they couldn't do it with my sail. Also I think the lines and blocks where around 400 to 500. Well worth the investment as it made the boat so much more enjoyable to sail in light winds.
I am very happy with them and the sail.

There was one thing that happened though, I should tell about. I was on a broad reach in about 15 knots in Eastern Bay and bumped a shoal. I quickly headed up to get around it, but I couldn't get the tack tight to stretch the luff which kind of flogged the chute. So, I believe the shape is now a little stretched. Nothing happened to the stitching or anything but that is one day I wish I had 1.5 oz. I may buy a used 1.5 oz that I can use on heavy air days- one that I will not care much about if I destroy it. This boat is a blast in heavy air!!

I could have got a sail cheaper through crusing direct but they only sell 1.5 oz and the colors are a bit boring. Also I really like the local boating industry here and wanted my sail built here and money to stay here so that is also a reason I chose UK. I once had North Sails in Annapolis build a main for my Catalina 30 and when I ordered it the guy assured me it would be built locally, most likely at the Kent Island loft. I really got pissed when it got shipped directly to me from South Africa. Another thing that was cool about UK is Scott Allan(owner of UK) took me on a tour of the loft and it was neat to see the huge sewing machines and computer cutting machines and the computer program they use to design and cut the sail materials. It was really fascinating.

Let me know if you need any help setting up the rigging or any questions answered as I believe you are right across the bay from me!
Dave G
#226

[Kachina]

Hi Dave,

I was interested in your solution to rigging what you call a spinaker. I am about to do the same here in Sydney, Australia but before I proceed I would like to check some teminology differences with you.

1) Here in Australia a 'spinnaker' is flown using a pole from the mast to the clew of the sail. Are you using a pole?

2) My sail is referred to over here as an MPS (Multi Purpose Sail) a.k.a. Gennaker. and does not use a pole when flown.

I also have a couple of questions in confirmation.

1) Is the plate at the masthead strong enough to take the loads applied? Have you noticed any distortion of this plate since you began to use your sail?

2) A similar question about the bail on the bow roller. Any distortion there?

FYI my MPS cost the equivalent of US$1875 from North Sails loft here in Sydney (including the sock) it is .75 oz Norlon and is 75 sq meters (806 sq ft) in area. The cut is asymetric in alternate blue and orange stripes radiating from the head, tack and clew.

Trevor D'Alton
#150
Kachina

[Dave Granata]

Trevor,
The spinaker I'm talking about here is an asymetrical spinaker a.k.a genaker, crusing chute, a-sym. Most symetrical spinakers around here, requiring the use of a pole are used by racers. If I'm using the wrong terminology, I apoligize. I guess in sailing there are 10 million names for the same thing or similar thing.

I haven't noticed any distortions at the bail on the bow roller. That bail is really strong even if it doesn't look it.

I haven't looked at the plate on the mast head but it was really thick and when I spoke with the folks at Charleston Spars, they said those holes in the plate are designed for this. So I'm really confident that I'm not going to break anything. I would most likely rip my .75 oz sail than break hardware.

Dave G

[Kachina]

Thanks Dave,

I just wanted to be sure I was understanding you correctly. I will go ahead and make the modification ASAP.

Thanks for your Help.

Trevor
#150

[jbassi]

Dave,

Since your halyard exits the mast on the port side, can you tack the sail to starboard?

I am trying to set this up myself but it would help me to see some pictures of the details at the top of the mast. I have my spare jib halyard on the starboard side but am not sure how to get it to clear the forestay. If you have any pictures that would be great or even a sketch.

Thanks

[Kachina]

I used the spare genoa Halyard but it has to be rerouted.

At the top of the mast on the port side there is a sheave block exiting the mast. Just above this there is a saddle and on the crane at the masthead there is another saddle to which a block must be attached.

The spare Genoa halyard is pulled back inside the mast and brought out through the port sheave (mentioned above) through the saddle above it and then through the new block on the crane. This final routing takes it above and outside the forestay allowing the MPS to be tacked. Of course the lazy sheet must be led in front of the furled headsail.

I have a very good labeled photograph of the fittings mentioned but I do not know how to post it with this message.

Trevor D'Alton
#150
Kachina

[jbassi]

Dave,

Thanks for the quick feedback. Your explanation does help. As for the posting of the picture, I don't know how to do it either but if you can email it to me that would be great. My email is gbassi56@aol.com

Thanks

[C350ia]

I have a chance to buy a barely used asymmetrical spinnaker at a very good price. But it wasn't made for a 350. I'm told it was on a "35-38" foot boat. Does anyone have dimensions for an asymmetrical that was made for a 350 so I can see how close or far off this one is to the right size?