Replacing the hot water heater

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Schroeder61

Replacing the hot water heater

Post by Schroeder61 »

Any advice on replacing the hot water heater -- specifically getting it out of the confined space on the starboard side? We have hull number 5 and the tank, which is 12 years old, is leaking on the bottom. Looks like the only way to get it out is through the lazarette, by dismantling the shelves and removing the refrigeration condenser. Any suggestions?

Jan S.
Seaquel
Norwalk, CT
djones
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:03 pm
Location: Oak Island / Southport, NC

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by djones »

Well, I'm not sure this will be helpful or not. We have hull #13 that we got as a project boat, after it had sunk some years back.

Our water heater also had to be replaced. I bought an identical Seward 11-gallon unit, and when I went to take it out, I saw the same thing. There was no easy way the old one would come out of that opening right above the unit.

Determined not to take all the shelves, etc. apart, and not being sure the water heater would even pass over into the large port storage area, I decided to take the square metal cover "box" off the old water heater while it was still in the original location. (Just a few sheet metal screws.) Worked the cover out of the boat OK. Was then able to get the remaining cylindrical-shaped unit up through the hole and out of the boat.

Took the metal cover off the new water heater in the same manner, and put the new tank in place, then worked the cover down though the opening, and reassembled everything down below. It was not elegant, but it wasn't that hard either.

Good Luck with whatever method you come up with. I imagine someone else may jump in and show us the easy way to do it now. Ha!

Don Jones, C350 #13 Onatop
Oak Island / Southport, NC
jrohrbaugh
Posts: 70
Joined: Wed May 08, 2013 2:57 pm

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by jrohrbaugh »

Be really sure that ALL the A/C current is off. When I worked on my unit earlier this year I had the panel a/c electric switched off but the unit was still getting current!.

It's a bear to work in the tight conditions but units do leak around the fittings and at one point I just considered by-passing all together. However, finally got things working and leaks fixed.

Best of luck.

Jamie S/V Soixante
Hull #444
Triumph
Posts: 256
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:34 am
Location: Tampa, Fl

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by Triumph »

I would consider replacing the 11 gallon heater with a 6 (or Less) gallon water heater. If you ever are out cruising, say sitting in one spot for a few days, it would take a lot less time running the main engine or Honda 2000 to heat up hot water for a shower, or the dishes. 11 gallons is way to much even for dockside use in my opinion. Not to mention the added weight of the 11 gallon tank in the very stern of the boat. Perhaps the 6 gallon would be an easier install too.

Bill
TRIUMPH
AynB
Posts: 88
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:13 pm

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by AynB »

Hull 17, replaced the Seward with an ITR diesel fired unit. Seward came out vertically with an 1/8" to spare after removing the shelves ( which we completely remodeled to offer the clearances for the new heater.
Disconnect all hoses and power, remove the three outer casing pieces ( a small challenge ) and hoist it up. Really not a problem. When installing the ITR, it went in similarly, remove the casing pieces, drop the heater onto vibration isolators, reinstall two of the three casings, attach hoses, attach power, mount last casing, then plumb the exhaust hose.

I second the comment to check ALL fittings ( including the hidden drain fitting ) before committing to a replacement. It may really be just a loose fitting.

al
cuthbert
Posts: 86
Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:20 pm

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by cuthbert »

Since this thread in 2014 has anyone replaced the 11 gallon water heater with a 6 gallon version? Or any alternate size or heating solution (google search of ITR seems to be $5K for diesel heating, is that right? If so, not the solution for me) I often take a mooring for many days at a time and have found it takes 40 mins minimum per day on the engine after day 2 to get water hot enough to shower. I would be interested in options/alternate solutions and from what I see here that water heater coming out is only something to be done out of necessity. I ask as I have the coolant leak/puddle under the PSS shaft noted in other threads and when I do search around the bleed valve on the heater coolant inlet I want to have options in case I discover anything else untoward.
Triumph
Posts: 256
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:34 am
Location: Tampa, Fl

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by Triumph »

I haven't removed mine yet, so no help there. I would love to replace mine with a 4 gallon or a 6 gallon at most. It takes way to long for the engine to heat up 11 gallons. Because of this, I installed a 2 gallon tank under the sink, and we use that while out cruising, and just sitting not moving from place to place. We do not run the engine for days at a time.
Pete Bruzik
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 10:40 am

Re: Replacing the hot water heater

Post by Pete Bruzik »

Hello All...
Our 2003 #107 water heater is leaking from the bottom - all hose connections are tight and dry.
Based on previous posts I knew that the 11 gallon Seaward needed to be taken apart in order to replace.
Thanks for the heads up!
Ordered one thru West Marine - looked EXACTLY the same BUT is was not a Seaward it was a KUMO.
Problem is the KUMO cannot be taken apart - they use pop rivets instead of screws...
So - thankfully I was careful when opening the box etc... Ordered a Seaward - I have the old one taken apart EXCEPT for the engine water hoses so that we can continue our trip.
Pekabu 3 heading north from Key West - no hot showers unless in a marina! I am motivated to get it installed!
TIPS for replacement:
The engine coolant loop to the water heater is above the engine by about 3 inches - I did not lose coolant - the expansion tank seems to have taken the volume once the hose seal at the heater was loosened. When I was done the heater bleed valve did not need bleeding. I added a minor amount into the "radiator" cap on top of the engine - running it and bled the valve on the thermostat body.
Empty hot water heater area and sugar spoon storage
Unscrew and remove the shelf on top of the heater
Sit on top of the heater with your feet to the rear
remove the hold down screws on the tabs that anchor the heater to the hull
Remove all the housing screws - there will be three across the rear that you can remove once you remove all the tab screws (above)
then if you can fit in sugar spoon access hatch then get in (or for me my wife got in there) and shift the water heater forward since it is now loose so that the final three screws can be taken off. Now housing can be removed and looks like no problem to remove based on previous reports on this site
Now remove (cut) the hot and cold water supply - do not remove the engine coolant hoses until you are ready to physically replace the tank
I then purchased all new fittings for the fresh water supply.
This is where I am now - new HWH being delivered today - will be able to install in a few days
Will update if I have any issues that I run into that you should know!
OK VIP!!!!
There are three companies that make these - all the same exact unit... BEWARE... the 11 gal unit sold by West Marine is made by KUMO and the enclosure is put together with RIVETS not screws - do not buy the KUMO because you will need to drill them out - I returned the KUMO and bought a WHALE - this one has screws.
When you take apart the "U" shaped shield you need to have the top facing the starboard side of the boat and bend in the flaps to get it out. Then Get a line attached to the fittings on the front of the water heater so you can lift it out vertically (bottom to the starboard side) then angle the the unit (now the front is on top) and shimmy the edge out by tipping about 20-30 degrees - it then slides out then you need to reverse tip to get the other end out.
Installation is the reverse - longer arms would help a lot - having someone that can get into the sugar spoon hatch is helpful. Thanks Kathy!
Best!
Pete & Kathy Bruzik - Pekabu 3 - #107 - Original owner - 15 years on a water heater is pretty good!!!
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