Changing the oil

[wcconway]

Since buying our boat new in 2008, we have had the dealer service the engine. We have decided to change the oil and service it ourselves. Any words of wisdom before we begin??

[KenKrawford]

Here's a couple of tips I've learned over the years about oil changes:

1. Make sure the engine is up to operating temperature fbefore starting the job.
2. This gadget will make removing and transporting the used oil quick and easy - http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=10440. Go to a hardware store and buy a brass hose barb with a thread that matches the fitting on the end of the hose that drains the engine oil sump. This can be inserted into the nylon hose on the Oilboy.
3. Put a couple of paper towels under the oil filter before you remove it. This is probably the messiest part of the whole procedure.
4. Meticulously wipe up all oil drips from the engine. If not, they will heat up and smell when you run the engine.

Good luck. It's really quite easy once you get the hang of it.

[william vanwagoner]

Another trick is to place a large ziplock baggie around the oil filter, along with the paper towels beneath it, prior to unscrewing it all the way. This catches much of the oil that runs out of the filter and avoids a mess. I also use the baggie method when changing the zinc on the heat exchanger which captures all the water along with the old zinc. It also works with the fuel filter mounted on the engine which I change one each year.

Good luck,
Bill VanWagoner #229

[wcconway]

Speaking of the zinc......we have always had this maintained by the dealer, too. So, any tips/tricks for changing this out? (Thanks for the info on the changing out the oil....we'll test it out tomorrow).

[william vanwagoner]

The pencil zinc is located on the bottom starboard side of the heat exchanger right next to the plastic sheathed control cables. I use a small open end wrench to loosen the zinc and then tuck a gallon size baggie under it and unscrew it the rest of the way. The zinc drops into the baggie along with the water in the exchanger. Then screw in a new zinc. Keep in mind that the replacement zinc will likely be too long to fit and I typically cut off about a quarter to a third of an inch with a hacksaw
Good luck
Bill VanWagoner #229

[william vanwagoner]

One more thing. I note you have a newer boat which might have a Yanmar. If so, the zinc might be in a different place if it has one at all. My previous post applies to the Universal M35B engine

[wcconway]

Thanks, Bill. We have a Universal 35 on our 2008 Mark II. Will check it out tomorrow

[wcconway]

The oil change was completed successfully without incident using the recommended procedures. Thanks!

[dvolkman]

Just reading your posts. I usually assist in this operation and keep plenty of Bounty paper towels on hand and a garbage pail ready in case of spills or drips.

Glad it went well!
DV

[Capt. Nini]

Ken, Will you give more and specific details on the brass barb and it's thread type that you mention?

Thank you,
Randy
Capt. Nini
#294

[KenKrawford]

Randy, I don't remember the specs. on the hose barb. I took the threaded brass plug from the oil drain hose to the hardware store and was able to find a bard with matching threads.

[AynB]

1) the hose barb is a 1/4" NPT size - that is to say, the thread to mate with the engines hardware is 1/4" NPT, your barb should be sized to match your suction hose. However, for the first two seasons, I just used the dip stick hole and a suction system to suck nearly all the oil out. This last season, I made up a connection on the suction system to take advantage of the built-in drain system. That's where I use the 1/4" barb female brass fitting.
2) I have had great luck in avoiding making any mess at all when removing the oil filter by simply taking a standard sandwich size ziploc bag and basically using the baggie as a "glove", sliding it over the filter ( once I have gotten it to unseat ) then unscrewing the filter. You have to keep an eye on the orientation of the baggie, but I rarely get more than a few drops on the pan. The best part is that once the filter is in the baggie, I just zip it up and I don't have to worry about it dripping somewhere else.
3) Heat Exchanger Zinc : A CME-0 part number zinc is the correct size and number - a benefit is that you can purchase JUST the zinc (without the brass part) and if you check it often enough, you can just remove the old zinc , replace with the new and save about $3.00 each time. Don't even try to change the zinc unless you have closed the raw water intake! Lastly , on the M35B, if you are finding that the zinc is too long ( a stock one SHOULD NOT BE TOO LONG ), you might want to have a look ( with a mirror ) of the interior plumbing of the H.E. There might be build-up of salts, or impeller blades, or other junk in the H.E. causing the impediment. Also, one of the interior welds may have broken loose and allowed the interior to shift. I'd have this checked out before just assuming that the zinc was too long.

Good day all.
al

[william vanwagoner]

As for the zinc, I have not been able to get the stock part and the most common size for the size of the brass plug is too long to fit. This applies both to the entire part and the screw in zinc replacement part. I found this out the hard way when the zinc bent and broke off as it hit the round upper part of the heat exchanger housing. This was not due to build up of deposits or broken impeller blades. In fact, I just boiled out the exchanger after five years and it was not too bad to start with. (I did it because it was a good preventative maintenance item, not because there were any issues). If you are unable to find the correct size zinc, cutting a bit off the more common longer one is not a problem, just a little more work

[SVHappy]

Hi All this is my first season in the water with a C350, here in Stamford CT, Hull #130 Formerly Blind Date hailing our of New London.
First oil change on the U35-B - any hints on what oil filter and oil to use?

Thanks

[KenKrawford]

I've always used Rotella oil. They recently replaced Rotella T with Rotella T4. I picked a 1 gallon container of Rotella T4 5-W40 at Walmart for just under $14.
If you insist on Universal parts, the oil filter number is UNI300209 and runs about $17. I've always used equivalent auto oil filters. Purolator L14459, Fram PH 3593A, Fleetguard LF3462 etc.

Congrats on the new boat and welcome.

[cuthbert]

Re the zinc, this has never been as straightforward for me as it has been for many others. Everytime I extract the zinc it is invariably broken and not worn as per the manual examples, but nonetheless I have a method that I have refined and works ok. First I buy the standard size zinc and then reduce it in length by a 1/4 inch and also reduce the diameter slightly using a piece of glasspaper (maybe 1/8 inch at most) for ease of fitting. I have done the diameter reduction by hand and also in the past reduced the diameter precisely on a lathe it matters not which way its done.

When it comes to fitting the new zinc after many times over the years of never feeling comfortable about how the new zinc and associated new plug/holder would grab or even lockup within a few turns, I first clean the threads in the heat exchanger by using a tap of the correct size with a standard 1/2' square drive (no T bar required or desired) and screwing it in very VERY gently by hand, just finger and thumb pressure and I'm very very VERY careful to start the first turn as if it was to cross thread it would ruin the exchanger insert. The tap is super sharp and easily cleans any build up on the threads. It would also easily cut its own path through metal, so insert as you would a spark plug to an alloy cylinder head.

Doing this twice a year it is a simple maintenance item. I do not know why it is more awkward on my boat than many others, but having had the heat exchanger off and cleaned everything last year, all the threads are good and the zincs that broke in years past had no ill effects of undue buildup or blockage.

On the oil change I use a hand vacuum pump ($95 west marine or $40 at wallmart)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Manual-7L-Ca ... /698070095

And with engine up to temp, remove oil filler cap, let pump gently extract through oil extraction hose point on front lower engine and at the point where the extractor is starting to make slurping noises as it catches air I add a cup of fresh oil in the top so I can see it extracted and last of old oil gone.

...I just realised this thread is as old as the hills...re the oil filter I buy a fram PH3593A from O'reilly autostore which are in most us states and with the oil the key thing is the regular oil change, high compression diesel engines are less forgiving than a petrol engine and need the regular oil change.

[S/V Tavish B.]

Hello all,

For my two cents, I've always used Universal filters, and have found reasonable prices via a Google search for each part number.

Also, I use the "trash bag" method for my oil changes. That is, after I warm up the engine slightly to get the juices flowing, I very meticulously spread out a large Hefty bag in the engine bilge, then back out the oil pan nut and drain the oil that way. I also tend to pour a sacrificial quart of oil through the engine with the plug out, just in hopes it will grab the last few ounces of the worst lingering oil. It could be a costly waste and achieve nothing, but it makes me feel like I'm taking extra good care of my baby.

Fortunately we have a used oil container in my Marina, so upon draining, I transport the bag in a five gallon bucket a few hundred feet and dump it, then trash the filters and bag. Gotta be careful and pay close attention, but I've found it to work without fail or additional equipment beyond a trash bag and a wrench.

Safe Travels!

Nick C.

[SVHappy]

Thanks for all the info - Oil change with no surprises.