Catalina 350 International Association

Hello D&M: I had water leaking into my forward cabin and collecting all the way forward in the ledge above the bed. The leak was coming from the electric anchor winch. It had a broken seal. Very easy to replace. The seal was only a couple US dollars. A sister ship about the same age had the same...

Hello Reinhard; my 2005 was doing the same thing. Boat Tech guys tell me that poor conductivity is the cause 99% of the time. I cleaned my connections on the back of the tachometer and on the alternator and all seems good so far in 2020. Good luck.

Hello All, I have been looking for a replacement shower faucet / or hints to repair - mine leaks from the handle when "on". I do not see any way to remove the handle to tighten up the valve stem as on most faucets... So... repair or replace - if replace what works with the connections we ...

I read Mark Sutherland's Sept 12, 2017 post regarding problem unfurling the main sail. I put a custom cover on my boat in the winter and I lower the boom by twisting my boom strut. The lower boom allows the winter cover to drape nicely over the sides of hull. Every year I think I raise the boom back...

John: are you sure it's fuel? I've had an issue with engine anti-freeze leaking into my engine bilge every winter; and absolutely NO leaking in the warmer sailing season. My expansion reservoir is nearly empty in the spring. I replaced the hose and even removed the expansion tank but can't find wher...

Hello Nybor: I'd check to see where the water is coming from. I frequently wash out my anchor locker with both sea water (when at anchor and using my anchor wash down pump) and at dock (using fresh water). I spray a lot of water in my locker to clean the chain & rope rode. There is an above the ...

Did you ever resolve your zinc issue from your Oct 20, 2009 post? It's 2016, I have hull #329, 800 hours, and I'm now experiencing broken pencil zincs and sometimes unscrewed zincs from the brass bolt. I tried plumbers tape (which tested okay for continuity between the two metals) and that one broke...

I had the same problem. Liquids flushed fine but solids did not. I was going to buy a new impeller blade but the guy at Sea Era chuckled when I told him my problem and he said just change the "joker valve". Really, really easy to do, cheap, and not messy at all. I had some calcium build up...

Similar situation with my 2005. Every now and then it sounded like the engine was starving for fuel. The wire going to my fuel pump had a disconnection and the wire insulation held the wires together enough to give me an intermittent connection. I tested the wire with a volt meter for an Ohm reading...

Cleat on removable seat.... BAD IDEA!!!! Hypothetically; do not actually do this, next time you're under sail let out 30' of painter and hold it with just your hand. This will give you an idea of the opposing force(s) your dinghy creates; especially when your dinghy hits a wake or chop.

Hello Tommgreg: what does "failed" mean? Does it still pump but not evacuate the water in the bottom of your refrigerator? That's what mine does. Therefore, I remove the joker valve at the top of the anti-siphon loop, hold my thumb over the hole and pump 4-5 times, replace the joker valve ...

I carry a Mercury 9' air-floor dingy (approx 85 lbs) on my Garhauer davits and a 5HP Mercury outboard (approx 55 lbs) on the stern pulpit mount. When my forward water tank is full my bottom paint on the stern sits above the water line and when it is empty the bottom paint is even with the water. I n...

I removed my out-haul car in order for my winter cover to lay flat on the boom. The screw holding the stopper at the end of the slide was a "bear" to remove so I used an impact diver and a lot of hammering. Once removed I slid the out-haul car off and tilted it: that's when the bearing spi...

FYI... I started this blog on April 14, 2010. UPDATE: The buzzer has been an Albatross around my neck for three years. On Labor Day 2013 I was leaving anchor and my engine began starving for fuel. At 1K RPM the engine ran but when I accelerated to 2.2K RPM the engine would choke and sputter. Thinkin...

All things settle over time. My strike plate hole got out of alignment with the door set (male section) on my forward cabin door. The door/door-frame did not change; in other words, there was an even gap all the way around my door/frame. So I'm not sure how the strike plate misalignment could occur....

Before you replace the sender try cleaning the wires at the back of the gauge and the bus behind the instrument cluster. Remove one at a time, clean with sand paper and replace, then clean the next one. It worked for mine.

Removed the putty at bulkhead/ceiling joint, cut 1/8" of the veneer along this joint, cut 1/4" strip on the vertical joint, used a putty knife with 3 ft handle to pull veneer away from bulkhead, sprayed GUOFF on veneer and bulkhead and scraped off old glue, sprayed 3M Adhesive 90, pressed ...

My tach was being temperamental and here's what I found; 1.) a poor electrical connection can effect your tach. I added a new ground wire from my instrument panel to the engine block. This fixed my tach as well as my engine thermostat accuracy. 2.) the tach was erratic when I started the engine with...

I cut the veneer along the ceiling line and cut a 1/2 inch section from the ceiling to the floor from the veneer (middle of the bulkhead where the two pieces of veneer meet) then removed 75% of the port side veneer, striped the glue the best I could (still had quite a bit of old glue), sprayed 3M Ad...

Check the Whale connectors going into your hot water heater. Motoring during very rough seas my Whale connection came off of my hot water heater, pumped all the water from my forward fresh water tank into the bilge, bilge pumped that water overboard. During this event my float switch got stuck in th...